Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

High RPM overheating.

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
    I couldn't find the prior threads with the other posts (apparently went away with the upgraded operating system here) but

    here's some reading for ya. As most engines nowadays have a flush port on the power head, I don't see why you would have to remove the impeller.
    Removing the thermostat is a "should do" for the most effective treatment.

    http://www.rydlymemarine.com/assets/...structions.pdf
    Thank you.

    I went to the web site and thought that looked very interesting. I phoned them up and spoke to one of their Engineers. He told me the product does work well, but is hell on zincs. Either pull the zincs first and plug any holes, or replace them afterwards.

    He said pull the T-stat, put the bottom of the motor in a 5 gallon plastic drum, get an old live-well or bilge pump and recirc the liquid through the flush connection for about 30-40 minutes.
    Said that should work.

    I now have another problem. I have the Yam Service Manual and it does not mention internal zincs - nowhere.
    I resorted to the nearly discarded Seloc manual, and it says I have at least one zinc possibly two under the head. Shows a general location for one of them, as indicated by the red arrow.
    Does anyone know if this is the zinc, and can it be got at through the T-stat housing? And are there anymore hidden away? This is the 2002 90TLRA motor.

    Thanks for the help
    John
    2002 KW 1720

    Comment


    • #17
      typically those two zincs are on the block and require cyl head removal for access.
      what you will be amazed at is the fact that other than being rather gray they will be intact.good idea, never worked. after about the third drying cycle the anode is covered with a calcium like deposit that renders it simply another part along for the ride. myself I would replace the water pump with the correct kit,replace the T-stat and pressure control valve grommet and pop the head and cover . check the head for flatness,clean the head and block and go boating.
      take maybe 3-4 hours if corrosion is not a factor.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
        typically those two zincs are on the block and require cyl head removal for access.
        what you will be amazed at is the fact that other than being rather gray they will be intact.good idea, never worked. after about the third drying cycle the anode is covered with a calcium like deposit that renders it simply another part along for the ride. myself I would replace the water pump with the correct kit,replace the T-stat and pressure control valve grommet and pop the head and cover . check the head for flatness,clean the head and block and go boating.
        take maybe 3-4 hours if corrosion is not a factor.
        Thank you, I will do that. Presently out of town for the summer, so can't work on engine anymore until September. I will keep the forum informed as to what happens.

        Hope y'all have a good summer.

        John
        2002 KW 1720

        Comment

        Working...
        X