F225TXRC Water Tube

[rpambrun]

I started this project 2 days ago when I found a rental place less than 2 miles away with a trailerable engine lift. Got the PH removed and started to disassemble. But the upper and lower mount bolts were so corroded that I had to resort to using heat on the tope ones and cutting the nut on the bottom. After getting everything disassembled I came to the conclusion that had I not had to replace the water tube, I might have got 4 or 5 years out of the exhaust and muffler. The muffler had no breaches at all and there were some noticeable pitting around the top few inches, but there was so much carbon, I could not tell after that except on the lower 3 or 4 inches, there was some pitting. I don't know how anything can get destroyed with all the carbon on everything. It was on all the exterior walls of the oil pan and on the interior of the upper case. So, it was evident that all the exhaust does not go through the exhaust tube and the muffler. Wish I knew what was causing it. Obviously the engine is not running right,

While the engine was up in the air, I checked the gasket surfaced and they were perfect. I'd be inclined to replace the oil pump. All other surfaces were in good condition. I'd be inclined to replace the muffler and the exhaust tube and of course, the water tube..

Does anyone know a good carbon remover.. It's a real mess. Anyway I've added some pictures to show the lack of damage. Also, the upper exhaust guide had some corrosion around the exhaust port. I'd be inclined to change that out too. Please tell me what you think.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Pic of the water tube?

As for the carbon, I suspect a breathing mask / glasses, wire brush and a drill motor with a rotating brush should make short work of it.

And wear clothes you want to become rags. Now for the fun part...

Gasoline on old rags, once your mostly done, will clean off any remaining crud...

[panasonic]

Castro Super Clean in a purple jug. Still will require scrubbing.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Clean-D.../dp/B000CCM63K

[fairdeal]

- I agree, looks like it could be many more years of life left in those parts -
although definitely some serious pitting in what Yamaha the "exhaust manifold":



- does seem to be unusually "sooty" - makes me wonder if the engine was generally running "rich" or "cold"

- I don't know why you would replace the oil pump - unless you are planning on removing it and installing the "speedi-sleeve
(which personally - I would defer until actually needed....)

[rpambrun]

Here is a shot of the muffler with the broken water tube, And as far as the oil pump is concerned, I read some where that one should replace the pump if over a 1000 hours once the PH is removed. It was working fine. I also wonder if I might have a disconnected vacuum line somewhere that might be causing all the carbon. I'm not under standing how the exhaust gets all over the outside of the oil pan, muffler and all inside of the upper case. Also, the upper exhaust guide has some metal gone from corrosion around the exhaust port. I'm wondering if the gasket material is sufficient enough to cover that or maybe I should just get a new one with a nice flat surface. I'll get out my rubber gloves today and start cleaning and start ordering g parts later today.

[99yam40]

I think I would start out with a pressure washer to get all of the loose stuff.
then spray it down with a cleaner and pressure wash again.
the older I get the less elbow grease I have to put on things.

I agree with oil pump.
I would hate to tear this back apart for an oil leak that pops up.

If exhaust is not suppose to get to places that are covered with soot/carbon, to me would mean something was leaking it into there

[fairdeal]

I read some where that one should replace the pump if over a 1000 hours once the PH is removed.

one can read almost anything on the internet; some of it correct, much of it nonsense.

Yamaha certainly makes no such recommendation. Although they have made this one:

"Yamaha recommends replacing the oil pump, related seals, and gaskets when installing a repair sleeve."


It is not uncommon for (pre-2008) F225 owners paying a professional - by the hour -
to install the mid-section exhaust parts,

to be advised to have the speedi-sleeve installed "while we are at it"
and then, follow the Yamaha advice to replace the oil pump as well.

But - IMO - to simply remove and replace the oil pump - by itself - makes no sense.

No other moving parts of the engine are as protected against wear as the inside of the oil pump!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That tube sure IS ROTTED!! Tks...

[rpambrun]

While waiting for parts, I have been cleaning carbon from parts and wire brushing bolts. The upper casing was the worse since it is largest and with the most corners. A wire brush, a scratch pad, some vinegar and concentrated soap did the trick. Only had to throw 2 T shirts into the rag bag. I had no problem getting bolts removed. Unlike other outboards I've messed with. They all came out and with a little rotary wire brushing look good as new. The upper and lower mounts were an exception. The upper bolts were corroded pretty bad, but with a little heat, the nuts came off. The lower bolts were a different story though. I ended up cutting the nut off to get them out. Both upper and lower dampers were shot and they are expensive little bastards.

My question for the day is, should I use Loctite on the bolts when putting things back together and torqueing them and if so, which bolts or all of them. Then once I get this beast put back together, I've got to figure out what is causing the excessive carbon build up. Maybe it's the poppet valve making the engine run too cold..

Thanks

****

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[fairdeal]

if you have the Yamaha service manual
(personally I would not want to re-assemble without referring to the SM)
it will show the recommended thread goo, if any

likely Loctite 572 * which is a white paste, labeled primarily for pipe fittings

IIRC I used white pipe dope ("with PTFE") because it is cheap and readily available


*btw when Mercury sold Yamaha's F225, their SM version advised instead Blue Loctite 242

[rpambrun]

I have the SM and all the torque specs. I'll look a little closer to see if there is a thread goo recommended. Some of the bolts looked like they had pipe thread goop on them.

[rpambrun]

Parts Started coming in today. Looks like they will all be here for a weekend assembly. I'm just a little confused. The oil pan arrived with a rubber part called a seal. Part number 69J-15761-00-00. It is called a seal, but it doesn't look like one. My old oil pan did not have this item. I know how it goes on the oil pan, but it doesn't seem to be sealing anything. Does any one know what it does and is it something new?

Thanks

[fairdeal]

is it a black rubber part, sort of "skirt" or "collar" shaped?

it just sits in the bottom of the oil pan - "surrounding" the central portion that the exhaust is passing through

I didn't see how it was sealing anything - I imagined it was some sort of "insulator"

but you didn't find one in the old oil pan? there was one in my 2005

I used the new one - still have the old one somewhere - it was "too good to throw away"

[rpambrun]

Yes, it is a black rubber part and the way it fits, it is almost like an insulator. Well, I got it, so I'll use it

[rodbolt17]

that ex stack is mostly junk. when reassembling I use pipe dope with Teflon.
there is no recommendation on oil pump replacement from any official Yamaha source.
I am jury rigging a hole corroded through my cousins F150 block just below the ex cover. motor is 12 yrs old with 5,315 hours. you think I am gonna do an oil pump too? nope it is fine and will most likely outlive the rest of the corroded parts.
I would tell him "you need new" but we cannot get a 200 until about October,maybe.