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  • key buzzer wont go off

    Good afternoon everyone. I've just repowered my boat with an 04 225 hpdi. I replaced the harness, control box, ignition switch, etc. After I hooked everything up the motor starts right up but the key buzzer wont go off. It doesnt matter if the engine is running or the key is just on it keeps buzzing. I have the yamaha diagnostic tool and when I checked it I didnt see anything that struck me but im a car mechanic not a marine mechanic. The only thing I saw was when i tryed to run the manual oil pump test it said that the motor was running and i had to shut it off first but the engine wasnt on. Ive attached a few screen shots to see if it helps. Thanks in advance

  • #2
    I know little about those motors, but was wondering if the duel motor switch should be on, along with the oil levels and over temp.

    I am sure someone will come along soon that can help

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    • #3
      Which YDIS version is that?

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      • #4
        What type of tachometer is being used?

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        • #5
          Version 1.33. I forgot to mention that I powered up the remote oil tank pump with my power probe and it came right on and the upper oil tank on the engine is full. I dont have the tach installed yet.
          Last edited by twmotox17; 04-23-2018, 07:57 PM. Reason: more info

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          • #6
            need to hook everything up as it should be

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            • #7
              I plugged in the speedo but i dont have a tach yet. So not having the tach plugged in will cause the buzzer to stay on?

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              • #8
                A tachometer not being installed will not cause the buzzer to sound.

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                • #9
                  Boscoe, did you look at his screen shots to see what all switches are on?
                  and why would the ECU think the motor is running when it is not?

                  also will you comment on his using a power probe to power up some parts of the system instead of wiring everything up as it should be

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                  • #10
                    Everything is wired up but i unplugged the oil pump on the remote tank and powered it up to make sure it worked. That was what confused me was why it would tell me to shut off the engine

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                    • #11
                      If you want to see if the oil system works, drain the tank on motor while the key is on and you are monitoring the switches to see if they change state when they should and turn on the oil pump refilling the tank and turning back off.
                      but I do not understand why the ECU thinks the motor is running or why it thinks you have 2 motors(if that is what the duel motor switch being on is saying)

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                        Boscoe, did you look at his screen shots to see what all switches are on?
                        and why would the ECU think the motor is running when it is not?

                        also will you comment on his using a power probe to power up some parts of the system instead of wiring everything up as it should be
                        I did look at them once before but not very well. I see that the engine temperature switch is on. Should be off.

                        The oil level switches look normal. SW1 is on (closed) when the main oil tank is filled. SW2 and SW3 are off (open) when the tank is filled.

                        On a single powered boat I am not sure why the dual engine switch is shown as being on.

                        On as in "closed" and off as in "opened".

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                        • #13
                          I noticed that about the temp switch also but when you look at the other screen shot that shows the temps they looked ok. I thought that was weird. I have no idea about the dual engine switch.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by twmotox17 View Post
                            I noticed that about the temp switch also but when you look at the other screen shot that shows the temps they looked ok. I thought that was weird. I have no idea about the dual engine switch.
                            The engine temperature value comes from a sensor. The on/off for the engine over temperature comes from one of two thermoswitches. One mounted in each cylinder head. I would unplug first one switch and then the other switch to see if either one being unplugged causes the alarm to stop. In which case YDIS will show the switch as being open. If the alarm persists, and the thermoswitches are checked and found to be in good condition, then I would suspect a wiring issue. If the pink wire that runs from the switches to the ECU are chaffed to ground the system will be fooled into thinking a thermoswitch is closed.

                            This can also happen with certain tachometers and wiring harness. That is why I first asked if there was a tachometer installed.

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                            • #15
                              Is the motor a VZ225 or a Z225?

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