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2006 F225 fuel issue

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  • 2006 F225 fuel issue

    I have a 2006 (01/06 manufacture date on tag) F225TXR 69J X 1026565. Last weekend the motor ran fine all day. On the way in, the motor coughed, sputtered and would not top 4100rpm. Then it died and would turn over but not run. Got it home, connected it to an external tank and same issue occurred (ran at a ramp in nearby river, not on muffs). Troubleshooting- At key turn (not starting, identified low pressure fuel pump not cycling on/off (cannot find confirmation that this pump will come on without the engine running). Jumped pump to good ground and it runs. Chases blue/white wire for cont from pump connector to ecm connector and it checks good. When connected to ecm reads open. Checked wires from main pump relay located under the ecm. There is one red/yellow wire with 12v, yellow wire from key, one black grnd, a green wire and 2 more red/yellow wires red. With the ignition on they yellow wire has 12v, all 3 red/yellow wires have 12v, the black has continuity but the green wire that comes from pin 2 on the ecm has neither voltage or continuity . Figured this relay was at fault and ordered a new one. Installed new relay and checked circuits . Green wire now give a resistance reading with the key on (I dont know what it should read) and the ground wire at the low pressure pump now also gives the resistance reading versue continuity between an engine ground. My issue now is what am I missing? Can anyone confirm if the low pressure pump actually cycles if the key is on and the engine is not running because the pump still does not run when I switch the key on. I have ready some forums posts that say it does while others say it doesn't. All I know is it should cycle for 10sec off for 20sec below 1200rpm...but not sure if that means when engine is running or off or both. I will be running to the ramp tomorrow evening to run it and see if the thing is fixed or not. I am by no means a outboard expert so any pointers, criticism info is welcomed.

  • #2
    The low pressure pump does not run at key on. When the engine is running and the RPM is 1200 or less the low pressure pump runs for 10 seconds out of every 30 seconds. Above 1200 RPM it runs continuously.

    The high pressure pump runs for a few seconds when the key is on. If the key is turned to the start position the HP pumps runs for as long as the starter motor is energized. It runs continuously when the motor is running.

    The LP pump is con*****ed by the pump driver which is con*****ed by the ECU. The HP pump is con*****ed by the ECU.

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    • #3
      fairdeal will be along shortly with maybe some diagrams and more words.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Hooked Up View Post
        Checked wires from main pump relay located under the ecm. There is one red/yellow wire with 12v, yellow wire from key, one black grnd, a green wire and 2 more red/yellow wires red. With the ignition on they yellow wire has 12v, all 3 red/yellow wires have 12v, the black has continuity but the green wire that comes from pin 2 on the ecm has neither voltage or continuity .
        Figured this relay was at fault and ordered a new one. Installed new relay and checked circuits . Green wire now give a resistance reading with the key on (I dont know what it should read) and the ground wire at the low pressure pump now also gives the resistance reading versue continuity between an engine ground. My issue now is what am I missing? .
        that's the "main relay" -
        the fuel pump driver(s) ("relays") are located in the bottom of the pan
        just inside the latch on the port side



        I'm a bit groggy this morning -
        if the main relay wasn't working it would affect more than just the LP pump
        but I'm not imagining why you would measure any difference,
        replacing a good main relay with another good main relay

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        • #5
          btw, I feel like Hooked Up should receive some kind of award -

          not only starts off his post with the model and manufacture date in the first line
          but includes the full PID too!

          not sure I've seen that done before here......

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          • #6

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            • #7
              Fairdeal, thank you for the schematic. This will help in identifying the correct circuit to check. 2 questions:
              1. What vaccum reading should I get from the fuel line before the bowl filter if the LP pump is running properly?

              2. Regarding the green wire from the main relay (68V-81950-00-00 RELAY ASSY) , what function does that serve? I ask because during troubleshooting and trying to isolate/test items in the circuits, the green wire had neither voltage or ground continuity with the key on and ECM disconnected. When I replaced the relay, i now get resistance on the wire with the key on... again, all I know it that the green wire goes to the ecm, pin 2. Have not been able to see if it is even related to the lp pump.

              thanks

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              • #8
                Your manual is here

                https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/se...a-shop-manuals

                Cost you nothing.

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                • #9
                  Iirc Yamaha gives some low value for expected suction but you should not see very much
                  but when I have put a gauge on mine I see nothing meas
                  maybe my gauge was not sensitive enough.

                  the green wire has no impact on the operations of the LP pump.

                  dont recall that we have discussed it here
                  unless I am mistaken it is the tach signal
                  and my guess is
                  its involvement with the main relay
                  is to allow the ECU to perform an orderly shutdown when the ignition is switched off

                  I would be interested if Boscoe or Rodbolt confirm that or I am seriously confused

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                  • #10

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                    • #11
                      Just ran the enging at the dock. Ran fine from idle up to 2200rpm with the prop turning for about 5 minutes. Then rpms began to fluctuate and it was died.

                      Looks like I will start at the beginning and verify the wiring, etc. I dont wanna just throw parts & $$ at it hoping for a fix. This is my 1st motor issue and I am trying to learn as I go. The manual panasonic pointed me to is leaps and bounds more detailed than the crappy Seloc one I have...
                      Last edited by Hooked Up; 04-05-2018, 09:41 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
                        Somebody help please....L/W is grounded by driver to run LP pump. B/W is grounded by ECU to run lp pump. B/W heads over in the direction of hp pump?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by boscoe99

                          Blue and red/yellow head to the HP pump. Changing to Black and blue at the connector.

                          The driver has nothing to do with the HP pump.
                          So the lp pump is grounded by either ECU or driver depending on RPM?

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                          • #14
                            Don't you love when they change colors at a connector..lol

                            At least there is colors though. Not all white with little tiny numbers printed on them....

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                            • #15
                              apparently my verbiage on the diagram legend is confusing.

                              "driver" means relay - a "remote con*****ed switch"


                              the relay itself provides the ground for the LP pump to run - when it is switched "on"

                              the ECU provides the ground to switch the relay (which then "switches on" the pump!)

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