Lower Unit carrier question

[rodbolt17]

skip the oil.
tends to flash over when you heat it.
yep your gonna have it hot enough to flash most oils.
the gear oil that is left in the case will be boiling.
if it aint boiling the oil your no where near hot enough typically.
might be best to use the dealer locator function and take the case in for disassembly.
make sure the dealership has at least 1 master tech.

[walleye1]

You don' need a master tech to pull a f********ing bearing carrier wtf.

[rodbolt17]

I have actually pulled a bearing carrier in half.
that is why I dont pull just the carrier.
that and you cannot properly clean the bore.
if you have never delt with antique outboards in salt water you simply never know.
me I have been working this salt pond since the late 80's.
back when I worked on boats in the ft worth Tx area we never used a tourch. it is my go to tool here in the salt pond.
years ago merc recommended pulling the carrier once a year and cleaning the corrosion.
many a case has split due to it.
do you have to be a master tech to pull a carrier. nope.
but a master tech is most likely going to have a tad more experience than most.
I actually was present when an undertrained tech totally destroyed a left hand carrier. he tried to press it apart BEFORE removing the spanner nut.
it did finally pop a part, with a very loud bang.
I have seen gear sets destroyed cause the reverse gear teeth did not mesh with the pinion and the carrier forced in.
they don't teach you how to deal with corroded parts in school.
first V Suzuki school I did that was my first question on dissasembling the V6 lower. where is the tourch?
Sam just laughed.
on the V4 and 2.6L v6 Yamaha that steel oring backup ring tends to stick. on pulling just the carrier it leaves the bearing and rev gear behind. now it is a real pain.
failure to remove the shims on the V4 and 2.6L cases and you tend to destroy them. of course they tend to get distorted when removed.
things most fresh pond techs never get to see.

[walleye1]

I dont deel with salt water mostly, but I have been in the heat and beat buisness for a while. Do you talk to your customers like you do here?

[rodbolt17]

sometimes. there are some folks on this site that have met and delt with me.
sometimes it is about the only way to get some folks attention.
typically a master tech will have 10+ yrs of experience and works for a dealership that values tech training.
that is why when I am at school I seek out other experienced tech and exchange ideas.
the problem with experience is it takes time to gain. now that I have half an idea of what I am doing I simply do not want to do it anymore. which is why I am thinking of retireing and doing something else.

[donsmarine]

I've used trailer safety chains with s hooks and a johnson/evirude flywheel puller for some motors

[driver27]

Since I started this thread, thought I would update it. Got the carrier out after making a beefy enough tool. My corrosion was not too bad, but I did clean it good, acid washed the corrosion and filled in the pits with a bit of jb weld, just a skim coat, so not too much sanding to do to level it all out. Reassembled with new seals and o rings with grease on the lube side and hondabond HT sealer (yes I know cannot mix and match yamaha and honda) on the outside. Let everything sit overnight to cure and everything pressure tested perfect. Happy I did not have to resort to heat. All back together now. Thanks for everyone's help on here.

Rodbolt if you retire, then please stay and contribute to the forum, I have used your advise a ton of times on several issues. Usually if its an issue I could find advice without posting a new thread.

[fairdeal]

Got the carrier out after making a beefy enough tool.

please, elaborate!

[driver27]

Pulled the carrier via the end of the crankshaft. Used a steering wheel puller and made some hooks out of 1/2 bolts by grinding off the head and heating enough to form a j hook on the end. Then used some threaded rod and some couple nuts to make it long enough to work properly. I made this setup in 3/8 bolt size first and it simply straightened out the hook part of the bolt. 1/2 did the trick. I likely took all the temper out of the bolts by heating, so 1/2 stuff was strong enough to compensate for that. Simple and cheap once I got the sizing right. I was not going to put too much pressure here before moving on to the slide hammer and heat method. Pretty much a home version of what Walleye1 posted a picture of.

[99yam40]

I am sure it was the prop shaft not the crankshaft you were pushing against

[rodbolt17]

you will find the OMC/BRP hooks work well if you grind some extra relief. I strill simply slide hammer the shaft and carrier out as an assembly. faster and easier.
at 100 bucko's an hour it saves my customers money.

[zenoahphobic]

you will find the OMC/BRP hooks work well if you grind some extra relief. I strill simply slide hammer the shaft and carrier out as an assembly. faster and easier.
at 100 bucko's an hour it saves my customers money.

This is where experience comes in, knowing exactly what produces the outcome desired. Very difficult to know exactly what tapping force to use for a first time. I know the feeling, sometimes a quick sudden relaxed belt, bingo job done, however a good novice uses caution so slowly winding a puller feels much more comfortable.
It's part of the learning, once you have done something , the next time it will take you half the time or less.

[Soundear]

Great advice on this forum. I appreciate the valuable Information. I’m an audio engineer; not a marine mechanic. In any profession, experience is typically the winner! With that said...
since I last posted asking for soutions to my inability to remove my bearing carrier from my 1998 lower unit. I fabricated a puller that also is made up of 1/2” threaded bolts and using Map Gas for a heat source. I have a few questions ...
* How do you determine how much you tighten down on the puller before you damage the bore or crack the carrier?
* There was a valuable recommendation by Rodbolt17 to use a slide hammer adapter for the puller. Is that a dealer item, or can that be purchased online?
* I soaked this carrier for 2 weeks. The inside of the gear case and the usual part of the carrier are clean as a whistle. It amazes me it’s still stuck! Is it unwise to heat the carrier from inside the gear case?
* As far as Map Gas is concerned, I realize it’s not as hot as the recommended Oxyacetylene heat source. If I have Map gas, at whate pace and distance from the lower unit casing do I heat and for how long?
* I carefully removed the Shift Shaft as advised . Please excuse my ignorance, but how does that contribute to easing the bearing carrier release?
* Is it suggested I take the driveshaft assembly out to make it easier for any reason?

[rodbolt17]

your heating a heat sink. keep the flame moving.
remove the water intake screens cause your gonna move the flame that far back.
you can buy the slide hammer attachment or have a local machine shop make it.
corrosion is some mean locktite.

[Soundear]

Well,
I finally removed that carrier! It took a whole tank of map gas, some patience and lots of guidance! Rodbolt17..... you were right on the money!
Besides changing the O Ring, is it a good idea to change out the beArings as well as the oil seals? They look good... I see no pitting
but it is a 1998 C115TLRW. If it’s recommended to keep them, should I flush them with some solvent and use a crocus cloth on the prop shaft and bearing race? I reLize it’s difgicult without seeing them, but any advice would be appreciated!