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  • Lower Unit carrier question

    2005 F225 TXRD right hand rotation. Does the shift shaft have to be removed to remove the lower unit bearing carrier? Service manual indicates that might be a possibility but is not exactly clear. Pressure test confirms a slow leak around the o ring deepest in the foot. Any suggestions on removing a stubborn carrier? Have not gotten aggressive yet.

    Thanks

  • #2
    does t have to be removed? nope.
    but it is a lot easier and damages less stuff if you remove the shift shaft and use the slide hammer adapter on the prop shaft.
    and heat lots o heat oxy/acetylyne type.

    Comment


    • #3
      Ok great, thanks for your response. I will round up a slide hammer and adapter then. Time to get more aggressive.

      Comment


      • #4
        it is the shaft adapter for the left hand case.

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        • #5
          Why would you not want to remove the shift shaft?

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          • #6
            No problem removing it, was simply asking if it was necessary to remove it in order for the carrier to come out. The service manual does not say one way or another. Rod says its not necessary but best to do so, so that is what I will do.

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            • #7
              Only reason you would have to remove the shift shaft is to remove the prop shaft.

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              • #8
                I am just after the carrier so I can replace the 2 orings on the carrier. Bottom one leaking.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                  it is the shaft adapter for the left hand case.
                  Just curious about this statement since he said it was for a right hand rotation unit..

                  And since you will be jerking the prop shaft and carrier out at the same time, the shift shaft needs to be removed before doing that

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    cause with the propshaft in place it is a witch to clean the oring bore and inspect it for corrosion pits. most likely the reason it leaks now.
                    unlike the shaft seals the oring is a static part and usually only leaks due to corrosion.
                    gearcases I do a lot of. trust me the easy way is with the tool and slide hammer with oxy/acetylyne and removing the shift shaft.
                    on the old style with the claw nut I use a drill and cut the nut out. last week I did the prop seals on an LZ200, had to remove the nut in 4 pieces.

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                    • #11
                      Could a corrosion pit in the O-ring area be filled with JB Weld?.....since it's a "static seal" area seems it might work fairly well as long as you sanded it very smooth and true...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                        and heat lots o heat oxy/acetylene type.
                        I'm impressed, the Yamaha paint apparently stands up to that?

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                        • #13
                          I don't live in the salt world, I use map gass.

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                          • #14
                            repainting ?? yep.
                            if you did not fry the paint you aint got heat.
                            can it be JB welded, depends on your skill level.
                            I have done it.
                            but then I make 10.4x38MM brass out of 8x50mm lebel brass.
                            got my first Lee load all when I was 12, I am 56 now.
                            I have been tinkering about for some years now.
                            JB weld, a split shaft, an air motor and 320 grit.
                            from there simply be careful and patient.

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                            • #15
                              why is it necessary to remove carrier for seals replacement, unless disassembled completely lower unit? Are 4 cycle F series engines have different lower unit than old 2 cycle i have?

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