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Convert 2008 F15 CPLH fom tiller to remote.

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  • Convert 2008 F15 CPLH fom tiller to remote.

    Hi! Searched forums but have not found the solution for this outboard. I'm in process of converting a 2008 F15 CPLH from tiller to remote. I purchased the conversion kit, which made the mechanical portion easy. The electrical has proved more challenging. I was led to believe there would be a pigtail wire harness connection in the carcass, but there is not.

    I should note at this point that I'm connecting this outboard to a Morse style connector with separate panel mounted tilt and ignition switch.

    There is a bullet connection organizer/holder which appears to have most of the relevant connections. The tilt mechanism had a clip.

    Is there a 10-pin harness that connects directly to this ouboard or is there a pigtail that wires in and then allows connection to the typical Yamaha 10-pin connection?

    I phoned the service departments at two Yamaha dealers in the last two weeks, including the one where this outboard was originally purchased. Both said they would phone back after touching base with Yamaha techs, but have not heard back from either. Appreciate any help in completing this conversion!

  • #2
    What is the part number of the electrical kit/component that you have?

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    • #3
      The boat is at a shop space a few miles away. I'm pretty certain this is the part number: 6AH-48501-00-00 Will check this evening. The only electrical component in this kit was a pigtail for just the engine stop (believe).

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      • #4
        Do you have a part number listing of the parts that are in the kit? Do you have the 99999-04179-00 wire harness?

        Here is what I see as being in the kit:

        Last edited by boscoe99; 03-12-2018, 03:34 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ScrumpySJI View Post

          Is there a 10-pin harness that connects directly to this ouboard or is there a pigtail that wires in and then allows connection to the typical Yamaha 10-pin connection?
          Sorry that I did not read and understand the significance of this the first go around. Why do you mention a 10-pin harness? What is it that you want to do electrically from the helm?

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          • #6
            Scrumpy.jpg
            I would like to have the ignition switch and tilt primarily. Secondary would be a tach w/hour meter. 10-pin is not necessary, but seems to be the current standard. I am making the presumption that people do on occasion set this outboard up for remote use. Our boat is a 21' displacement hull picnic boat. Only having the option of starting and stopping the engine by running back and forth from the helm seems like a bad idea. The boat previously had a 40 hp 2 stroke Johnson, despite being rated to 30hp, and was sorely overpowered as you can guess.. Our 6hp kicker pushed it just under a knot of hull speed. The 15 with the right prop should be ideal.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Nice boat you got there..What kind is it? Looks similar to Cape Island boats they use around here for Lobster fishing.

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              • #8
                Is this F15 used as a kicker on this 20ft boat?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                  Is this F15 used as a kicker on this 20ft boat?
                  He says it a displacement hull boat, so it has a hull speed and don't need much HP to reach that hull speed.

                  In his post he also said it has a 6 HP kicker that will drive it within 1 mph of that speed.

                  Some folks are not interested in going fast and burning lots of gas.....take your time and enjoy the scenery.

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                  • #10
                    Perhaps the poster can post a picture of the boat out of the water...to see the hull shape.

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                    • #11
                      Hi- Uploaded the two photos I could find of the boat on the trailer. It is a Downeast 21, built by the Downeast Yacht Company who primarily manufacturered big cruising sailboats. Have only seen one other, but is a sweet design for a small boat camping, fishing and gunkholing around the San Juan and B.C. Gulf Islands. Definitely is a slow boat with approximate hull speed of 6.8 knots. The Johnson 40 would push it to 12 knots and a 6 horse to 5.5 knots ish.

                      Any thoughts on a wire harness?

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                      • #12
                        Have you installed the 99999 harness yet? If so, what wire colours did it connect to?

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                        • #13
                          From what I can see the remote control attachment kit from Yamaha was designed so that only the throttle, shift and kill switch would be functioning remotely from the motor. All other functions (start and power tilt) would continue to be controlled on the motor itself.

                          If you want additional functionality you will have to create your own harness and make some connections that were never intended by Yamaha. First place to start is to get a copy of the service manual and review the wiring diagrams in the back of the manual for (a) the model that does use a ten pin harness and (b) your model so as to decide how to go about engineering your own conversion modification.

                          First you will need to string some wires for power and ground. Then wires for the tachometer signal, starter motor and the power tilt system.

                          Tachometer lead seems straight forward enough. A loose green wire with a bullet connector is attached to the CDI. That is the connection point for the tachometer signal wire.

                          The power tilt should be relatively easy also. Yamaha makes a remote tilt switch with harness that can be mounted at the dash. The harness should be long enough to reach the motor. Then it is just a matter of connecting/splicing three wires together.

                          The start switch could be a momentary on type switch with a single brown wire going to the starter motor relay. Through the neutral safety switch of course.

                          Last edited by boscoe99; 03-13-2018, 05:15 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by panasonic View Post

                            He says it a displacement hull boat, so it has a hull speed and don't need much HP to reach that hull speed.

                            In his post he also said it has a 6 HP kicker that will drive it within 1 mph of that speed.

                            Some folks are not interested in going fast and burning lots of gas.....take your time and enjoy the scenery.
                            Now don't get defensive. Around here you have to hit a certain speed mark. To outrun the damn bugs. Right now, we have the fabulous biting gnats. Thinking of taking up cigars again. So expensive though.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                              From what I can see the remote control attachment kit from Yamaha was designed so that only the throttle, shift and kill switch would be functioning remotely from the motor. All other functions (start and power tilt) would continue to be controlled on the motor itself.

                              If you want additional functionality you will have to create your own harness and make some connections that were never intended by Yamaha. First place to start is to get a copy of the service manual and review the wiring diagrams in the back of the manual for (a) the model that does use a ten pin harness and (b) your model so as to decide how to go about engineering your own conversion modification.
                              Thank you for the research and suggestions - this seems consistent my suspicions. I hadn't considered the momentary on switch which would certainly be easy to wire. It looks like none of the F15 models around this era was not designed for remote according to this chart: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard...models_web.pdf

                              I believe the F20 is built largely on the same platform and there seems to be one remote model in the lineup. I'll start there, but expect I may just wire the items I require directly.

                              Thanks again Boscoe99!

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