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Somebody Explain this to me Re: T-Stats Question

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  • #16
    What could the design engineers have done to facilitate greater water flow through the thermostats housing area to prevent or mitigate the build up of crap?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
      What could the design engineers have done to facilitate greater water flow through the thermostats housing area to prevent or mitigate the build up of crap?
      I have fantasized about drilling the thermo housing and pressing in a hose barb

      - as from some exhaust covers -

      then "tee" those into the flush hose.



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      • #18
        Originally posted by fairdeal View Post

        I have fantasized about drilling the thermo housing and pressing in a hose barb

        - as from some exhaust covers -

        then "tee" those into the flush hose.



        That'd work!!

        Do that and you likely wouldn't even have to run the engine, flush port ONLY..

        I'm not sure if the LU would get a good rinse NOT running, but plumbing into the rest of the system is great!
        Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 03-09-2018, 01:04 PM.
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

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        • #19
          Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
          What could the design engineers have done to facilitate greater water flow through the thermostats housing area to prevent or mitigate the build up of crap?
          The thermostat "frame" appears to be copper or brass. What if that was covered in some sort of nitrile coating. Would that prevent the battery effect by reducing the chance for conduction?

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          • #20
            it's a saltwater engine. There has to be a way to do it.

            Perhaps adding what I'd call a "flush valve".
            Such a valve could be sandwiched (bolted on) in between the T-stat and T-stat bore.
            There seems to be enough room under the hood for this.
            Then, have some kind of lever that protrudes through the base of the cowling.
            Pull down, and the T-stat flush valve opens to allow water to pass.
            Push up, and the flush valve closes.

            Grady-White 330 Express

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            • #21
              Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

              The thermostat "frame" appears to be copper or brass. What if that was covered in some sort of nitrile coating. Alodine and zinc chromate primer help. Would that prevent the battery effect by reducing the chance for conduction?
              Later models have a separate thermostat housing made from a plastic type of material.

              I was thinking of a large diameter hose that could run to a port on that housing. On the engine side of the thermostat. So flush water would flush backwards from the top and down instead of from the bottom and up. Half inch ID at least.

              The current flush hose is too small and too long IMO to really be effective. Water being introduced into the base of the block is being lost out below while at the same time it is trying to fill and flush the block.

              On the other hand, I dare guess that the vast majority either don't flush or don't need to flush (fresh water users) so maybe Yamaha things "why bother improving the system"?


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              • #22
                I'm stocked up on Alodine and zinc primer. I don't know if any of these flush ideas will work. Most of this residual salt crud should be somewhat diluted by running in the saltwater itself. At least moved around some. I removed my excess with a paper towel. No scraping needed. It still chewed a hole by what I assume to be galvanic corrosion.

                I'm thinking of removing the cover and stat just to see how much fresh water will flow out at idle, etc.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                  I'm stocked up on Alodine and zinc primer. I don't know if any of these flush ideas will work. Most of this residual salt crud should be somewhat diluted by running in the saltwater itself. At least moved around some. I removed my excess with a paper towel. No scraping needed. It still chewed a hole by what I assume to be galvanic corrosion.

                  I'm thinking of removing the cover and stat just to see how much fresh water will flow out at idle, etc.
                  Do that and let us know please.

                  Also, use just the garden hose fitting if you don't mind with the engine not running so we can see how much water flows out. Given the small diameter of the garden flush hose I can't see it being a whole lot.

                  Last edited by boscoe99; 03-09-2018, 05:18 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post

                    Do that and let us know please.

                    Also, use just the garden hose fitting if you don't mind with the engine not running so we can see how much water flows out. Given the small diameter of the garden flush hose I can't see it being a whole lot.

                    I will. Not sure if tomorrow or Sunday. Fairdeal may beat me to it. Actually wouldn't be bad to see his V-6 and my I-4.

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                    • #25
                      Maybe measure the ID of the flush hose on the motor if you can/want to.
                      Last edited by boscoe99; 03-09-2018, 08:19 PM.

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                      • #26
                        I have a feeling boscoe hit on the problem.
                        with the flush hose so small and trying to fill the block with the water dumping out as you fill it, it may never fill completely.
                        with that stat area being the highest point, it may just never get any water up there.
                        just a pocket of air that has no where to go

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                          Maybe measure the ID of the flush if you can/want to.
                          Of the garden hose?

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                          • #28
                            The flush hose on the motor.

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                            • #29
                              it may never fill completely.
                              with that stat area being the highest point, it may just never get any water up there.
                              just a pocket of air that has no where to go

                              >>> Yes exactly! This supports the idea of drilling a small hole or two in the face of the T-Stat to allow air and some water to pass. Two small holes in the T-Stat probably won't affect engine operating temperature. At 160 degrees and above, the T-Stat will be wide open anyway. It's at IDLE that we're trying to accomplish flow rate to rise salt out. I never thought of an air pocket developing but that makes perfect sense. It's at the highest point of the engine. Kinda like the last scene of the Perfect Storm when the boat was upside down.

                              If air could be expelled, at least SOME freshwater would make it up to the highest T-stat bore (with muffs on and engine running). Thoughts?
                              Grady-White 330 Express

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                                it may just never get any water up there.
                                just a pocket of air that has no where to go
                                No, 99 is mistaken imagining an air pocket.

                                The Yamaha thermostat is constructed with small bleeder vents to allow air to pass, even when the thermostat is shut tight cold.

                                Look at pstephens video posted today, you will clearly see the flush water jetting out of those bleeders.

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