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  • Motor not starting.. suspect it is the fuel pump

    I had let my outboard sit for a year and it just wouldn't start ... I was suspecting an electrical issue.
    The guys on the forum had me go through the following process.
    It turned out I did have a bad high pressure pump.
    This is the process i went through...


    1. Remove one plug... check for spark
    2. CAREFULLY... try to start engine on ether... if runs... then positively fuel issue
    3. Pull the hose attached to VST pot... pump bulb... fuel comes out... it is electrical issue with high pressure pump
    4. Test for 12 volts DC at positive wire on injection pump wire to ground... result of test... Relay is closing... and all three fuses are good.
    5. Test for voltage across pump... if voltage shown... pump is probably suspect.
    6. Remove drain plug on VST... if fuel drains... pump again suspect... replace and reprime
    7. CAREFULLY release pressure from schader valve...
    8. Remove hose to rail.. Engage pump... no fuel... pump is issue..
    9. Remove VST... check pot for clogs... pump is dead
    10. Don't freak out over price at Yamaha sites... Look for pump on Ebay... 10% for non branded pump vs. Yamaha price

    Follow this sequence... 2 hours for testing and ordering pump max.
    __________


    It is best to get yourself a service manual for your motor. Then you have the resources to work on your particular motor.
    The troubleshooting tree is list for each problem.

    There is also a list of issues and all items that can cause the particular issue you are addressing

    You need to have model number such as …. 2004 Yamaha outboard 200hp (SX200TXRC)
    You can find the part number… literature parts number (something like LIT-18616-02-80) at
    https://www.yamahapubs.com/
    Manuals can be found at…
    https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/se...a-shop-manuals

    Note: i was a bit confused
    I had questions that I had the correct manual…
    some numbers or letters may be dropped on front of manual
    manuals serve for several different motors… SX200C was shown on my manual (dropped the "TXR" in my case

    I AM NOT A GENIUS... this is just a summary of how they instructed me to the issue....

    This might not be your solution... if one of the steps... like the relay being bad... or it does not start on ether.... keep asking...

    THESE GUYS KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY ARE DOING... AND I HAVE NOTHING BUT RESPECT FOR THEIR KNOWLEDGE AND HELP

  • #2
    two hours ??????
    dude you are milking the mouse.
    fisrt test one meter lead on the blue pump wire the other to ground, turn the key on,better yet have someone else turn it on.
    carefully observe the meter.
    you should see about 1V for about 3-5 seconds then about 11v.
    boom testing is over.
    its called a voltage drop test.
    the first 3-5 sec we are looking at the voltage drop through the resistor to the ECU ground.
    the 11v is the voltage drop acrossed the pump windings.
    like I said it is a simple DC circuit.
    I don't own a 300 dollar fluke but I can use my poor radio shack meter.

    Comment


    • #3
      if the motor windings and brushs are ok you can sometimes soak the pump overnight in combustion chamber cleaner and unstick it. sometimes I have to reverse the polarity a few times with my jumper leads.

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      • #4
        Thanks. See ya got me covered. I dropped my fluke in the bay several years ago. Dang thing could test analog and digital instrument signals. And send pulses out as well. I only buy tools when I am doing paying jobs. Never have one that nice again in my life. lol

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        • #5
          Takes me an hour to push “pay” to buy something on the internet I am so cheap

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          • #6
            at 100 buck/hour I would be embarrassed to look a customer in the eye and tell him it took me 200 of your hard earned bucks to tell you your pump is stuck.
            I would tell him that I can remove it and soak it then try to unstick it and it will still be less than 2 hours.
            takes about 20 min to remove and open up the VST. fill a jar with a can of combustion chamber cleaner,dunk the pump and go to the next job. let it soak a day or so.
            then using my jumpers try to rock it back and forth by reversing the polarity.
            only briefly touch the jumpers to the battery until the pump breaks free or you can burn the windings out.
            once unstuck takes about 30 min to reassemble everything.

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            • #7
              rodbolt17... i WISH you worked in the clear lake area of Houston.
              Usually a 2-3 week wait to GET a boat to the front of the line.
              Nobody here is gonna soak a pump... they are gonna hit you with full price on a new pump.
              If they open the cowling its a $100 bucks.

              I am really screwed in that I lost my trailer in Hurricane Ike... it has been in the cradle for eight years, in my backyard on the bayou.
              For Hurricane Harvey... wrapped a 3 inch ratchet strap around the boat and metal cradle and hoisted up the 11.5 feet that we got in Ike...

              We just dropped the lower unit to put a water pump in yesterday... one guy on the tilt and trim... one guy operating the boat hoist..
              and my happy rear end in a john boat... we let the boat down and "pinned" the outdrive in the the john boat.
              removed all the bolts... slowly raised the hoist... let the first one inch or so drop... then raised the hoist as the john boat slowly drifted back.
              reversed this operation to stab it back in....
              fun fun fun...

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              • #8
                boating is expensive. I do try to save my customers coin when I can.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                  boating is expensive. I do try to save my customers coin when I can.
                  Not many like you Rodbolt....most want to empty your bank account in short order.
                  .

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                  • #10
                    to attempt to free up a stuck pump takes an 8 dollar can of combustion chamber cleaner,a small container and 15 min of my time.
                    beats buying a pump if I can do it.
                    I was speedi sleeving cranks and harmonic balancers long before I knew Yamaha made anything but dirt bikes.
                    speedi sleeved four stroke Yamaha cranks long before Yamaha offered them. speedi sleeve input yokes on Volvo and Mercruiser stern drives.
                    the Volvo has a 100% failure rate the past couple years due to the seal grooving the shaft in about 150-300 hr. that shaft is 499.00 on the counter.
                    takes the same amount of labor to sleeve it as replacing it. sleeve cost about 70 bucks. takes less than 5 min to install the sleeve once the bearing box is apart.
                    no Volvo nor merc offer the sleeve.
                    however I can save my guy about 430 of his hard earned coin to spend of cool refreshing beverages or whatever.

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                    • #11
                      does this mean you can order what ever size speedi sleeve you can think of?

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                      • #12
                        if you wish to pay they will custom make one.
                        google SKF speedi sleeve chart for standard sizes.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the tips!

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                          • #14
                            Success... New pump.... Fired right off...

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                            • #15
                              Glad to hear that. Hope you can now focus on the boat wiring and get that straightened out as well.

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