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2014 Yamaha F70 internal anodes

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  • 2014 Yamaha F70 internal anodes

    I replaced the anode on the lower port side of the motor, but there are three more internal - one between each of the spark plugs (part number 6G8-11325-00-00) that I've been told need to have the head removed to replace. Looking at the parts diagram would make me question that. Has anyone changed these and if so how did you have to go about doing it? Reading the question on the F250 in another thread on another forum made me want to ask about the experiences here (one person said that you didn't need to pull the heads to do this replacement and one was told you needed to).

    Thank you.

  • #2
    these?




    Have no experience with that model.

    But it certainly looks like you simply unthread those "blind plugs" to inspect /replace the attached anodes.

    Comment


    • #4
      Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
      these?




      Have no experience with that model.

      But it certainly looks like you simply unthread those "blind plugs" to inspect /replace the attached anodes.
      Those are the ones! I agree with you and dray0151 that they look like you simply take the plug out and the anode + the screw come out together.

      Thank you. When I find out for sure and try it I'll post back.

      Comment


      • #5
        You will as the manual I listed for you states need some grease for the o ring and a thread locker listed for the internal screw.
        Dennis
        Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

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        • #6
          I find this anode thing confusing. Obviously if they are highly eroded or missing they need to be replaced. A master tech on another forum states they lose "weight" during use. 50% reduction in weight, time to replace. Even with the visual aspect that they appear ok based on size and shape. I don't know....



          Need some sort of corrosion expert here.


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          • #7
            Interesting.
            https://performancemetals.com/pages/sacrificial-anodes-faqs


            Dennis
            Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

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            • #8
              Townsend maybe should have had some anodes in his wall since it is in contact with water and has metal inside it? 5.1.4 section.

              https://www.usna.edu/NAOE/_files/doc...n%20Design.pdf
              Dennis
              Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

              Comment


              • #9
                So yes, they do come out! I took out the middle bolt/cap (middle of the 3) and as soon as I buy the three replacement anodes I'll take the internal center screw out and replace like suggested in the book. I have 235 hours on the motor, run in saltwater, flush regularly from the hose flush port for all last year using Salt Away and this year on the muffs using same. The anodes look to be in decent shape, with some uneven surfaces indicating that some of the anode has been sacrificed. I used Bright Bay cleaner for 45 minutes after last year's hose flushing, as the area near the thermostat had a lot of scale on it. Cleaned up very nice.

                The manual says to use "three bond" on the cylinder head anode screw. May I use blue thread locker for that?

                BTW that manual and all your advice is greatly appreciated. I Face Timed with my mechanic this afternoon and we discussed the removal of these. He was unaware of them being able to be removed, but agreed that the manual looked as though they could be. However, he has now learned a little about the F70! Also, the parts guy said they cannot be removed without head removal. I'll bring him up to speed on these three anodes when I go buy the replacements. Both these guys are awesome when it comes to parts and mechanical stuff so I want them to benefit as well.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
                  A master tech on another forum states they lose "weight" during use.
                  I've also seen that claim; I suppose the anode could erode in a "sponge-like" manner - but I think if so, that would be apparent on examination.

                  50% - or any other number - is just someones "rule of thumb".

                  The considerations for deciding whether to replace or "let it ride" should be
                  how long will be it be before you check it again, and how much of it Is likely to be consumed before then

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Originally posted by Pangafla View Post
                    So yes, they do come out! I

                    Glad to hear it went well.
                    Without researching, don't know how that three bond compares to loctite red v blue;
                    but personally I would consider blue loctite adequate in that application

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Threebond 1322 as the attached states is for parts that require frequent disassembly I think like locktite blue.I think locktite blue would work. You might want to compare this spec sheet to locktite blue if you can find one. Just click on the three bond link not the http: link
                      Last edited by dray0151; 02-09-2018, 08:52 PM. Reason: Link correction
                      Dennis
                      Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by fairdeal View Post


                        Glad to hear it went well.
                        Without researching, don't know how that three bond compares to loctite red v blue;
                        but personally I would consider blue loctite adequate in that application
                        That's what I was thinking Fairdeal. Red would just seem to be too much as well. The bolt was tough to get off, but not too tough.

                        "Three Bond 1322 is a reactive acrylic monomer. The setting speed is fast while the ficing strength is low for parts that require frequent removal."

                        I looked through the entire manual and did not see any other internal anodes beside the lower exhaust anode (I think that's what its called - and I replaced it today) and the three that we are discussing here. That would be great, as it would take som of the worry out of this. I'll keep looking though. I made the manual into a PDF, but it still won't search for me.

                        BTW - the area behind the anode (in the head) looked brand new/no buildup or corrosion.
                        Last edited by Pangafla; 02-09-2018, 08:57 PM.

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                        • #14
                          I use loc-tite 518.
                          the 50% thing is a universal standard. when a sacrificial anode has lost 50% you replace it.
                          not rocket science it's routine maint.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            I don't see any other anodes than what's posted above.

                            http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...202/parts.html Part #4

                            On my 2006 F150, I checked and replaced the anodes, just LAST year. One was pretty bad, probably 50% gone..(lowest one in the head), the rest could have been cleaned up.

                            I'm very anal on flushing, recently starting using Salt Away.

                            I did not use any Loctite/sealer on those bolts. I just snugged em down, new seals, twist and install.

                            Pick away the salt and there's a bit of anode gone:

                            Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 02-10-2018, 05:08 PM.
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

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