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2008 Yamaha F250 TXR Trim and Tilt Assy

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  • 2008 Yamaha F250 TXR Trim and Tilt Assy

    I am swapping the entire unit out on an engine, was wondering if this can be accomplished without taking the engine off of the boat

  • #2
    as long as the boat is on land - no reason to remove the engine from the boat!

    I would start by disconnecting the t/t motor wires from the t/t relay, and pulling them out of the bottom cowl
    then apply battery power directly to the motor leads to tilt the engine all the way up (blue positive, green negative)
    let it back down safely on the "tilt support lever" and have at the unit removal

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    • #3
      I thought at least one clamp bracket needed to be loosened up to give it some room.
      plus need to support the motor if bracket it taken loose to remover the T&T unit.

      tight fit.

      but then I have not done it before on a F250
      Last edited by 99yam40; 01-19-2018, 06:13 PM.

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      • #4
        thanks all, if anyone has done one on this specific engine chime in, i am all ears, and appreciate all input.

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        • #5
          no need to remove anything but the unit.
          takes about 15 min.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
            no need to remove anything but the unit.
            takes about 15 min.
            Any more difficult than the Showa unit on the F150? That was very easy for me.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
              I thought at least one clamp bracket needed to be loosened up to give it some room.
              plus need to support the motor if bracket it taken loose to remover the T&T unit.

              tight fit.

              but then I have not done it before on a F250
              The service manual shows the nuts holding the brackets together being loosened so as to spread the brackets apart. But the SM apparent fails to consider that the brackets are bolted to a boat. For the brackets to be spread at least one bracket would need to be unbolted from the boat. A pain in the arse.

              I have removed many F250 trim and tilt units but only on motors that were on an engine stand. Never had to do anything but remove the feed wires from the T/T relay and snake them out of the lower cowling, uncouple the trim sender wires, unbolt the bonding wire, remove the pin holding the tilt piston to the bracket and then unbolt the body of the trim/tilt unit from the brackets. Power the tilt piston down and then slide the unit out from between the brackets.

              Seems that according to rodnut the procedure is the same even when the motor is bolted to the boat. I would certainly start by trying that.
              Last edited by boscoe99; 01-20-2018, 11:17 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                I thought at least one clamp bracket needed to be loosened up to give it some room.
                plus need to support the motor if bracket it taken loose to remover the T&T unit.

                tight fit.

                but then I have not done it before on a F250
                The service manual shows the nuts holding the brackets together being loosened so as to spread the brackets apart. But the SM apparent fails to consider that the brackets are bolted to a boat. For the brackets to be spread at least one bracket would need to be unbolted from the boat. A pain in the arse.

                I have removed many F250 trim and tilt units but only on motors that were on an engine stand. Never had to do anything but remove the feed wires from the T/T relay and snake them out of the lower cowling, uncouple the trim sender wires, unbolt the bonding wire, remove the pin holding the tilt piston to the bracket and then unbolt the body of the trim/tilt unit from the brackets. Power the tilt piston down and then slide the unit out from between the brackets.

                Seems that according to rodnut the procedure is the same even when the motor is bolted to the boat. I would certainly start by trying that.

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                • #9
                  I just posted and it got disapproved. Sent off to a moderator. Don't know why. Strange, very strange.

                  What I said was that I have removed the T/T unit without spreading the clamp brackets even though the SM says to do so. But I have done it with the motor on an engine stand, not on a boat. I tend to agree with rodnut. Try it and see what happens. No harm no foul.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks everybody, I apologize for the delayed response I forgot which password I used for this site, I will let you know what I find once I get into it.

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                    • #11
                      Ok it came off without taking the motor off the engine, too easy, compared to what i envisioned, but it is not back on yet either. Just make sure the main tilt cylinder is all the way down, and the unit comes right up and out.

                      looking for opinions to treat the mounting bolts, blue locktight, perfect seal or never seeze?

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                      • #12
                        Yamaha calls for Loctite 242.

                        Some use Loctite 242. Some use grease. Some use Three Bond. Some use never seeze. Some use pipe thread compound. Some don't use anything at all.

                        http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...r-Blue-242.htm
                        Last edited by boscoe99; 01-24-2018, 06:13 PM. Reason: Pipe thread compound added.

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                        • #13
                          Woe be unto he who uses Loctite 271. The red from hell.

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                          • #14
                            I suspect you won't go wrong with any of those, (although copper based anti-seize is always good for an internet argument)

                            this is what I've used for those t/t unit mounting bolts, and happy with the results.



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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
                              I suspect you won't go wrong with any of those, (although copper based anti-seize is always good for an internet argument)

                              this is what I've used for those t/t unit mounting bolts, and happy with the results.
                              Where in the heck have you been? I thought maybe rodnut pissed you off and you left.

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