Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300
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F90 stuck anode
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If the passages were blocked off then the sensor or switch that indicates overheat may not have been getting flow to monitor the over temp of the water, but should have seen block/head temp maybe
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View PostIf you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View PostIf you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...
Usually, the lower cylinder water jacket and head are blocked up the worst(over time, use, heat from the engine cooks the salt to the innerds of the block, especially when turned off)..Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-09-2018, 08:53 PM.
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If you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...
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IMG_20180109_100433317_2.jpg The tool I made that broke the anode seal free. It took several modifications to get the desired results. Then just clean out the mega load of salt in the water jacket. I don't know why this engine didn't overheat . Total blockage behind both head mounted anodes. If your in salt water make sure you check yours each year. Thanks again for all the replies.
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Thanks , that's what I did. Must have gotten a half pound of salt.
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If you get to chipping away at the blockage,keep a shop vac handy to suck out all you can so it does not go somewhere and block off passages
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Got it with the tool l made and the larger bar. I'll try to get a picture soon. Thanks for your replies
I saw the heat gun suggestion after I got it out. Thanks
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I'd put a heat gun to it and loosen/ almost melt the grommet which is rubber.
The anode will be rotted away (it's not hanging up), the rubber seal will still be there, distorted/stuck, but still there.
Lean on it with a 1/2" breaker bar and you may very well break it off. At least add heat before doing so...
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...202/parts.htmlLast edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-09-2018, 07:30 AM.
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Originally posted by haybailkiller View PostJust bought a boat that came with a 2003 F90 and it appears the anodes were never replaced. The one in the exhaust cover came out with no problem. The lower one in the head came out with a tool I made with lots of twisting . There is only a small point left and the hole is totally blocked with salt and corrosion. The upper one will not budge when applying ,what I think, is a lot of pressure. Thanks for any ideas? Also, is this an interference engine as the timing belt is also original with 556 hours?
Seems if there is a lot of salt and corrosion left blocking things up you are going to have to pull things apart to clean it all up
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Thanks for the reply. That will be an option once I am able to get it out of the block. Right now the anode and the cover are stuck tight in the block. The two cover bolts are out and I made a tool that fits in the two holes . I welded a bolt on my tool and with a socket and breaker bar it will not budge. I actually broke two bolts that I welded to the tool and had to weld a larger bolt to it. It still wont turn. Tomorrow I'm going to a 1/2 inch breaker bar. We shall see.
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If the center bolt will not come loose you should be able to purchase the cover and a new anode together from this site on the parts link. That's what I had to do when the bolt twisted off on my F115.
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