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F90 stuck anode

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

    To add to the above, you may want to at LEAST do a citric acid flush or rydlem flush.

    Usually, the lower cylinder water jacket and head are blocked up the worst(over time, use, heat from the engine cooks the salt to the innerds of the block, especially when turned off)..
    I am not familiar with a citric acid flush. The other I guess would be crc salt terminator . I have used muriatic acid in the past on my old Chris Craft manifolds. Do the products like salt terminator really work?

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    If the passages were blocked off then the sensor or switch that indicates overheat may not have been getting flow to monitor the over temp of the water, but should have seen block/head temp maybe

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
    If you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...
    The anode on the side at the bottom had very little salt deposit so I have not pulled the exhaust cover. You also suggested I pull the t stat. That sounds like a good next step. I did run some stiff wire down through the water jacket and taped some tubing to my shop vac and pushed that in as far as it would fit. Looking in with a small inspection mirror I got the salt all out of the head area.

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  • pstephens46
    replied
    Have you also removed and inspected the thermostat?

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  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
    If you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...
    To add to the above, you may want to at LEAST do a citric acid flush or rydlem flush.

    Usually, the lower cylinder water jacket and head are blocked up the worst(over time, use, heat from the engine cooks the salt to the innerds of the block, especially when turned off)..
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-09-2018, 08:53 PM.

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  • pstephens46
    replied
    If you you were able to get that much out of the anode "holes" do you think you may need to go deeper? Remove the jacket and inspect? Broken bolts are a valid concern...

    Leave a comment:


  • haybailkiller
    replied
    IMG_20180109_100433317_2.jpg The tool I made that broke the anode seal free. It took several modifications to get the desired results. Then just clean out the mega load of salt in the water jacket. I don't know why this engine didn't overheat . Total blockage behind both head mounted anodes. If your in salt water make sure you check yours each year. Thanks again for all the replies.

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Thanks , that's what I did. Must have gotten a half pound of salt.

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    If you get to chipping away at the blockage,keep a shop vac handy to suck out all you can so it does not go somewhere and block off passages

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Got it with the tool l made and the larger bar. I'll try to get a picture soon. Thanks for your replies
    I saw the heat gun suggestion after I got it out. Thanks

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  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    I'd put a heat gun to it and loosen/ almost melt the grommet which is rubber.

    The anode will be rotted away (it's not hanging up), the rubber seal will still be there, distorted/stuck, but still there.

    Lean on it with a 1/2" breaker bar and you may very well break it off. At least add heat before doing so...

    http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...202/parts.html
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-09-2018, 07:30 AM.

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Unfortunately you may be right.

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by haybailkiller View Post
    Just bought a boat that came with a 2003 F90 and it appears the anodes were never replaced. The one in the exhaust cover came out with no problem. The lower one in the head came out with a tool I made with lots of twisting . There is only a small point left and the hole is totally blocked with salt and corrosion. The upper one will not budge when applying ,what I think, is a lot of pressure. Thanks for any ideas? Also, is this an interference engine as the timing belt is also original with 556 hours?

    Seems if there is a lot of salt and corrosion left blocking things up you are going to have to pull things apart to clean it all up

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  • haybailkiller
    replied
    Thanks for the reply. That will be an option once I am able to get it out of the block. Right now the anode and the cover are stuck tight in the block. The two cover bolts are out and I made a tool that fits in the two holes . I welded a bolt on my tool and with a socket and breaker bar it will not budge. I actually broke two bolts that I welded to the tool and had to weld a larger bolt to it. It still wont turn. Tomorrow I'm going to a 1/2 inch breaker bar. We shall see.

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  • dray0151
    replied
    If the center bolt will not come loose you should be able to purchase the cover and a new anode together from this site on the parts link. That's what I had to do when the bolt twisted off on my F115.

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