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  • Prop shaft removal sequence

    I'm new @ this posting procedure. So here goes.
    225 Yamaha 1992. Lower unit, have retaining nut & keeper ring off housing.
    How do I pull gears out ?
    Can I pull on prop shaft or do you have to remove just bearing housing first ?
    Sequence for disassembly ?
    Puller type, design.
    What about shift linkage ?
    How much heat, assembly is really seized in lower unit.

    Lost reverse & shavings on drain plug. Neutral & Forward work.

  • #2
    You have to remove the bearing carrier 1st. It needs a puller. (in most cases) It will pull straight out and off the shaft. There is a small key on the lower part of the carrier to index it in the housing. Easy to lose the key. If you are only replacing the rev gear it will come out with the carrier. removing the shaft requires lower unit removal to remove the shifter rod so you can remove the other 2 gears. Be sure and run a magnet in there to get rid of any debris

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    • #3
      Prop shaft

      Will the other 2 gears need to be removed to fix shifting in to reverse ?
      Thanks for help

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      • #4
        Is the gear stripped or not engaging? If not engaging try adjusting your shift cable. If it is shifting but grinding or clunking the gear is shot. Sounds like you need to start with the easy stuff.

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        • #5
          prop shaft

          Lower unit is off motor. shift shaft on lower unit will not go to reverse.
          No grind., just won't go past neutral to reverse. Engages forward ok.
          I have spun shaft while shifting - no go, no grind either.
          For a while there was a slight grind in to reverse before complete failure of movement to reverse.
          Any suggestion as to ( best ?) way to pull bearing hub ?
          Any idea what went wrong in reverse shifting dog ?

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          • #6
            The clutch dog moves fwd and aft on the prop shaft to touch the fwd or rev gear. It has a series of ball bearings that lock it into which ever direction is selected. If debris has gotten into one of those it lock up or if the ball bearing has a worn spot on it it will do the same. You would have to remove the shaft to inspect it. remove the water pump assy including the wear plate. Then remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter shaft bearing carrier. remove the shifter from the lower unit adn the shaft will come out. The fwd gear and the pinion will stay in the lower unit. You will then be able to move the clutch dog back and forth on the shaft to check for binding. Be sure and note how the shifter shaft comes out and put it back the same way on reassembly. after you get the shifter and prop shaft out look at them and you will see how they fit togetheronce reassembled. Be sure to check the clutch dog where it contacts the gears for wear. This is not hard as long as you make note of how things come apart. As for shavings on the drain magnet there will always be some, but size makes a difference ( chunks). I use a standard claw arm puller w/o the arms. I wrap a small chain around the bearing carrier then around the puller . tighten the puller screw against the prop shaft. If you use the engine in salt water heat may need to be applied to the llower unit housing but remember there are "o" rings in there that will melt and really glue things together.
            Last edited by hawgherder; 10-05-2011, 11:02 PM.

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            • #7
              prop shaft

              Thanks, that is the info I need ! I will hopefully get it apart.

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              • #8
                lower unit

                Setup with puller & chain, no go, soaked with PB Blaster, no go, heat casing, no go. I have cleaned around bearing housing & key. PB Blaster seeps down between housing & bearing housing but still won't budge !
                ANY ideas are welcome. I can usually get things apart but this is a tough one.
                Maybe I should just get a aftermarket unit.

                Has anyone experience with SEI units ??

                Comment


                • #9
                  Shift Shaft Removal

                  Originally posted by hawgherder View Post
                  The clutch dog moves fwd and aft on the prop shaft to touch the fwd or rev gear. It has a series of ball bearings that lock it into which ever direction is selected. If debris has gotten into one of those it lock up or if the ball bearing has a worn spot on it it will do the same. You would have to remove the shaft to inspect it. remove the water pump assy including the wear plate. Then remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter shaft bearing carrier. remove the shifter from the lower unit adn the shaft will come out. The fwd gear and the pinion will stay in the lower unit. You will then be able to move the clutch dog back and forth on the shaft to check for binding. Be sure and note how the shifter shaft comes out and put it back the same way on reassembly. after you get the shifter and prop shaft out look at them and you will see how they fit togetheronce reassembled. Be sure to check the clutch dog where it contacts the gears for wear. This is not hard as long as you make note of how things come apart. As for shavings on the drain magnet there will always be some, but size makes a difference ( chunks). I use a standard claw arm puller w/o the arms. I wrap a small chain around the bearing carrier then around the puller . tighten the puller screw against the prop shaft. If you use the engine in salt water heat may need to be applied to the llower unit housing but remember there are "o" rings in there that will melt and really glue things together.
                  How does the shift shaft come up out to release the prop shaft? On a 2007 225hp
                  Last edited by djacslam; 05-27-2014, 11:25 AM.

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                  • #10
                    "Motorman" Did U manage to get the bearing house loose?? How did U proceed?? I am in the same situation for my F100 and have really some headace with this...

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                    • #11
                      its stupidly simple.
                      buy or make the slide hammer adapter.

                      pull the shift shaft.

                      remove the carrier lock nut.

                      attach the slide hammer.

                      heat the cwap out of the case.

                      remove the carrier/propshaft.

                      don't touch anything until its cooled off.

                      yep its that simple.

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                      • #12
                        Prop shaft removal

                        I am trying to remove the prop shaft out of my 1996 Yamaha 90 horse 2 stroke I remove the bearing carrier the reverse gear and thrust plate stayed inside now I can't remove the prop shaft do I need to disconnect the shifter linkage in order to get this out any help would be great

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                        • #13
                          see above.
                          the same applies to the 90.

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