2003 F115 stalling/skipping and would not shut off once

[Sparkieboat]

was not taken to be harsh at all. You have always been a big help and I greatly appreciate your input. It will be good for someone with my same problem to be able to find the end result. I thought about sending the injectors off..but at this point I know that there is something wrong with the electrical and I will get that fixed first. I do not know anything about a filter inside the pump..if there is one I am sure it would need to be cleaned..I am not sure why the fuel pressure is at 38 while running at all RPMs...when I just turn the key switch on without cranking it jumps to around 44-45. The factory manual I have says that key on fuel pressure should be appox. 44.1 and running it should be Apox. 35.6..so it seems to be right according to the manual.
By the way where are you catching all the fish at..I may drive down and bring my bass boat..LOL

[Sparkieboat]

Ok I dropped my boat off at a outboard repair shop..I partially know the owner/mechanic, he has been in business for over 20 years and has one of the best reputations around...he is not a Yamaha dealer, but does have the computer hook ups and the know how..he was very confident that he could trouble shoot my problem..he is way more backed up than the other shops that I checked out..most others could get to my boat right away or with in 2 days..he did tell me it may be up to 1 1/2 weeks...but I am fairly confident he will get to it sooner rather than later and help me to resolve my issue. We will see. I will keep you posted.

I saw a post in another forum where a guy took a 84 115 Johnson to a mechanic and came back to a $500 bill and the mechanic said he was not sure what was wrong with the motor..he got it to run for a few seconds, after rebuilding the carbs and changing some part..and it would be a lot more money to find out what else was wrong and fix it...I can not believe the level of incompetence that exists.

[99yam40]

Sparkie,
I saw in a different post where you said you installed a radio shack buzzer on a boat.
I have read some where that sometimes that will cause some electrical problems on some Yamahas.
Cannot remember what kind of problems, but you may want to check into that or at least mention that to the shop you took it to if this is the one you did it to.

[rodbolt17]

you need an alternator.

[Sparkieboat]

the radio shack buzzer is on my 1989 Pro craft...works like a champ. the Yamaha still has the factory buzzer. I can not see any way possible a buzzer could effect a motors wiring, unless maybe it leaked power through to the ground, that could possibly effect something i guess.

I already put a used alternator on it, so I ruled that out.

I am seriously think of starting an outboard repair shop, I seem to constantly meet people who have had very negative experiences with the ones around here. i think you have to be strung out on drugs and fail 2 IQ test to get a business license here...

[Tucker]

Where you from Sparkie?

[99yam40]

the radio shack buzzer is on my 1989 Pro craft...works like a champ. the Yamaha still has the factory buzzer. I can not see any way possible a buzzer could effect a motors wiring, unless maybe it leaked power through to the ground, that could possibly effect something i guess.

I already put a used alternator on it, so I ruled that out.

I am seriously think of starting an outboard repair shop, I seem to constantly meet people who have had very negative experiences with the ones around here. i think you have to be strung out on drugs and fail 2 IQ test to get a business license here...

Good to hear.
You must have got a hold of the wrong used alternator.
You need to find one the will fix everything on your motor

[Sparkieboat]

ROFL...I am from Savannah Georgia

[rodbolt17]

hey, I only failed 1 IQ test.
was medically retired as an FC2 USN.

and my motor quits running on me.
sometimes.

[Sparkieboat]

I have 2 sons in the Navy Sea Cadet program...they are both considering the Coast Guard...we will see. and thanks for your Service to our Country Rod.
Also if I do open up an outboard repair shop I will give you a %10 discount Rod..so if your motor breaks bring it to me and I will put a new alternator on it..and it will never break again

[Sparkieboat]

ok so today will be 1 1/2 weeks since boat drop off...no word so far...trying to be patient. I am actually in Myrtle Beach for a short Anniversary trip for my wife. I will be home thursday.so I will give him all the way until next week. that will be 2 1/2 weeks..then i will call....any bets on if i get a call before that?? Remember this is the most reputable shop I could find anywhere within 1 hour drive.

[Sparkieboat]

Ok, no big suprise, but new outboard repair shop never did get to my motor. so I picked it up and have now got a cable that will work so I can connect my lap top. I will attach the read out. the TPS seems a little high at .572. if this needs to be adjusted i will need to know how, as I have never adjusted one before.
the Throttle Valve opening was -3.1 and was highlighted in red during the test and readout.

Save date March 17 2011
ECM No.: 68V8591A11

Diagnosis
Code Item Result Condition
13 Pulser coil Normal
15 Water temp sensor Normal
18 Throttle position sensor Normal
19 Battery voltage Normal
23 Intake temp sensor Normal
28 Shift position switch Normal
29 Intake press sensor Normal
37 Intake air passage Normal
44 Engine stop lanyard switch Off
49 Over cooling Normal

Diagnosis Record
Total hours of operation 335
Code Item Occurred
18 Throttle position sensor 273.4
13 Pulser coil 305.3
28 Shift position switch 320.6
49 Over cooling 331.7
37 Intake air passage 332.5

Engine Monitor
Monitor Item Result Unit
Engine speed 979 r/min
Intake pressure 45.75 kPa
Intake pressure 13.62 inHg
Atmospheric pressure 1010.8 hPa
Atmospheric pressure 29.9 inHg
Ignition timing ATDC 1 deg
Battery voltage (12-16) 13.7 V
TPS voltage (0.5-4.5) 0.572 V
Throttle valve opening (0-90) -3.2 deg
ISC valve opening 50 %
Fuel injection duration 2.15 ms
Water temperature (below 90) 34.6 °C
Water temperature (below 194) 94.2 °F
Intake temperature (below 70) 29.6 °C
Intake temperature (below 158) 85.3 °F
Engine stop lanyard switch OFF
Shift position switch ON
Oil press switch OFF
Dual engine system switch OFF

Data Logger[Engine operating hours according to engine speed]
Engine speed Time[h]
- 1000 r/min 195.4
1000 - 2000 r/min 46.9
2000 - 3000 r/min 3.4
3000 - 4000 r/min 8
4000 - 5000 r/min 31.6
5000 - 6000 r/min 45.6
6000 - 7000 r/min 4.9
Engine hours 335

Data Logger[Data comparison graph]
Engine speed[r/min] Battery voltage (12-16)[V] TPS voltage (0.5-4.5)[V] Water temperature (below 90)[°C] Intake pressure[kPa] Oil press switch[0:OFF 1:ON]
1300 14.06 0.64 27.6 62.2 0
4850 14.14 0.88 28 66.1 0
2150 13.84 0.72 24.6 65.1 0
800 13.7 0.57 27.1 48.9 0
850 13.26 0.57 27.6 48.9 0
1800 13.84 0.72 30 66.6 0
900 13.62 0.57 29.2 46.4 0
850 13.55 0.57 30 48.9 0
850 13.48 0.57 28.8 48.9 0
900 13.7 0.57 30 46.9 0
950 13.7 0.57 32 45.9 0
900 13.77 0.57 33.7 47.9 0
900 13.62 0.57 34.1 45.4 0

[rodbolt17]

TPS voltage with shutters fully closed should be .733V plus or minus .o14V.
however with that voltage your ISC position should have been close to 70%.
you will need a 4 channel manometer.
you will need to CAREFULLY check the 5V reference to ALL sensors.
you have to many codes set,some may have been set and never cleared while troubleshooting.
DO NOT use the laptop to set TPS voltage, ONLY use a DVM.
the two should agree pretty much but DO NOT set the TPS with the laptop.
once the shutters are synched and the TPS ref 5V checked and the TPS set THEN record more data.
if nothing shows up measure the temp on the top of the ISC.
water temp is low, check the t-stat.
intake and baro pressures are funny,check the MAP sensor ref 5V.
if ANYTHING loards the 5V reference orange circuit it throws everything off,in range but off.
your TPS feedback is WAY to low.

[Sparkieboat]

ok is this the type on Manometer I need??
Amprobe MAN02-A Manometer,range 0 to 55.36 in WC
also did you notice the Throttle Valve Opening @ -3.1????
also should I clear codes?? and how??

[99yam40]

Sorry but that is for hvac and is only 1 channel from what I see.
The one Rodbolt is referring to is a 4 channel one and is very expensive I believe. It will monitor all 4 at the same time