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Old 10-12-2017
panasonic panasonic is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 964

Originally Posted by rodbolt17 View Post
typically the thread damage is done on removal. the AL tends to gall to the SS and its done.that is also why unless absolutely nessasary I don't remove the plug.
I am good at heli coiling them.
I have a special made tap for the F115-150 motors.
grease the drill, grease the tap. flush with kerosene when done.
Rodbolt hit the nail on the head, only slight galling from stainless steel fasteners will tear the aluminum threads to pieces in short order.

Bosceo I have seen lots of threads crack and jam up on the fastener from repeated tightening and loosening cycles...thus stripped out holes. BUT this I find is generally in hard aluminum such as 7075-T6, 2024-T6, 6061..ect Marine grade aluminum is generally much softer and tends to gall and stretch instead of cracking.

Not many bolt holes on A/C that you simply screw a bolt directly into aluminum threads. They are mostly all heli-coiled right from the factory to begin with...which is stronger and much easier to repair. There are hundreds of helicoils on just one engine alone....mostly in the magnesium cases.

I am sick of fooling with helicoils...

I also agree with Townsends on the torque being to high in the first place....I lock wire my oil plug on my bike..don't ask why. I just do.

Last edited by panasonic; 10-12-2017 at 01:03 AM.
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